Wednesday, January 13, 2010

Day 2 Aboard SeaDream II: "Bioluminescent Bay" (Mosquito Bay), Vieques

On Monday evening we experienced something extraordinary....something that can only be experienced in a handful of places throughout the globe. SeaDream II was anchored off Vieques, Puerto Rico and offered a fascinating nighttime excursion to Mosquito Bay, a bioluminescent bay.

Known locally as "Bio Bay," this spot combines the perfect conditions to create a community of dino-flagellates. These are microscopic organisms—part plant and part animal—that live here off the nutrients in the bay. What makes them unique is how they react to motion: they glow neon blue. So, while you can't see the organisms with the naked eye, you can see the light they produce when they come in contact with you, a fish, a boat, etc. The effect is other-worldly!

You can find dino-flagellates throughout the world but rarely in the concentration found at Mosquito Bay here in Puerto Rico. That's why this really is one of those must-do excursions. In fact, if you are fascinated by nature you should come to Vieques to experience this phenomenon. Scientists understand how these dino-flagellates emit light, but they aren't quite sure why it happens. It's theorized that it's a defense mechanism.

On this particular cruise, SeaDream offered two excursions to Mosquito Bay: one departing the ship at 6pm and a second tour at 7pm. You'll tender to Vieques where a school bus will greet you. The ride to the bay in the school bus is worth the price of admission alone! If you've ever been on an African game drive—off road—you'll understand what the ride is like to Bio Bay. It's bumpy, tree branches and scrub scrapes the sides of the bus, and you'll wonder just what you've gotten yourself into! But don't lose heart...the ride is totally worth it.

On the way to the bay, your tour guide will explain how bioluminescent bays works and why this particular bay supports this unique ecosystem. Once on location, you'll transfer to an electric pontoon boat and will push off silently into the bay as the sun sets (as we did during our 6pm tour). The guide will point out the stars at various intervals of the trip so you can see how the night sky transforms as sand slips through the hourglass. It's pitch dark on the bay and so very quite...you'll hear the songs of tree frogs calling to each other on shore.

The pontoon boat will stop in the middle of the bay, you'll don a floatation belt, and lower yourself into the water via a ladder. (The ladder had plenty of rungs and it was quite easy to get in and out of the water—there's no excuse not to do this tour!) You'll be wowed by bioluminsensce the moment you hit the water! Just move your arms and legs and a strange blue light will "glow" from your body! Lift your arms out of the water and you'll see individual "stars" or "diamonds" emit sparks of light.

It is so hard to explain just how unusual and beautiful this experience is. Photographing the effect is very difficult since you're in complete blackness and if you use a flash, you'll flatten the "glow." This is something you'll have to do yourself and then you'll also be telling people, "You must visit Vieques and Bio Bay!"

—Andrea M. Rotondo for LuxuryCruiseBible.com

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