Otaru's Market & Meiji-Era Historic Canal on Hokkaido

Day 10 aboard the Regent Seven Seas Mariner (Alaska to Russia to Japan).

After two more sea days, we were anxious to get to Japan. This is our first time here and we’re looking forward to exploring. My sister taught English in Japan for a year or two after she graduated from Harvard in the early 1990s and she always raves about how beautiful the country is and how incredibly nice the people are. We were about to find out just how right my sister was!

We docked in a fairly industrial area of Otaru Canal (Otaru Unga) on the island of Hokkaido. With our binoculars we could see quite a bit of the city and the surrounding hillside. After spending a day here, we decided that it’s a lovely little town, even if there isn’t too much to do.


We started the morning with a tour of an indoor market with Quinn McMahon (executive chef of the Mariner) and the Le Cordon Bleu chef and teacher, Frank Jeandon. This was a terrific bonus offered to the participants of the Le Cordon Bleu cooking class and their spouses. Private taxis (watch those automatic doors!) took us from the dock to the market and waited while we were inside.

If you’re in Japan, you must visit one of these spectacular markets! We were amazed at the wide variety of foods and the just-caught freshness of all the seafood. You know the smell of an American fish market? It sometimes smells, well, fishy or fishy with a hint of bleach. That was not the case here. In fact, there was no scent at all other than the hint of sweetness from cut flowers and the bread in the bakery! So fresh!


Hokkaido is known for crab and you’ll definitely find it at this market! There were dozens of kiosks with row upon row of crab! It was a sight to behold! The market offered dozens of types of fish and shellfish, as well as fish eggs, seaweed, fresh fruit and vegetables, bakery items, sweets and other items I couldn’t identify.

We purchased several sweet bean cakes, skewered meats and rice balls. Our group then stopped for lunch at the sushi counter. (I’m not much of a raw fish eater but my husband raved about the quality and freshness of the sweet shrimp, tuna, eel, scallops and other items we were served.)
We then piled back into the taxi and asked the white-gloved driver to drop us off near the Sakai-machi Street Historic District so we could do our own thing for the rest of the day.


Once a busy port known for its herring trade, the highlight of Otaru is now its Meiji-era canal and brick warehouses which have been converted to gift shops and restaurants. This historic (i.e., tourist) area is outfitted with tree-lined cobblestone streets, brick buildings and old-fashion gas lamps. While we explored, we saw several strolling violinists and horse-drawn carriages were available to ferry tourists around town.



Unique gifts to be had in Otaru include music boxes (you’ll find several stores offering ready-made and customizable music boxes) and hand-blown glass items.

We spent our day eating, shopping and walking through the canal area. (Don’t miss the chocolates filled with melon wine sold throughout the city and the ale at the Otaru Brewery, both specialties of the area.)

Other highlights in the area include Goblin Hall, a small museum filled with tengu (long-nose goblin masks); Aoyama Villa with intricately painted sliding doors and lacquered floors; the Herring Mansion (Nishin Goten), the 1897 home of a fishery boss which now contains memorabilia of the herring boom time; and the Otaru Aquarium.

Regent offered several shore excursions in Otaru and also one to Sapporo, the capital of Hokkaido. That tour included quite a long bus ride so we were glad we decided to tour this port independently.

Back on the Mariner, we were treated to an authentic tea ceremony in the Horizon Lounge and some local folklore entertainment from The Yosakoi Soran Team. This local troupe of children, teens and adults were dressed in traditional Japanese costumes.

Later as the Mariner prepared to leave Otaru, The Yosakoi Soran Team raced along the pier, waving, to bide us a fond farewell. What a fantastic day!

Photos by Leonard Hospidor

Cruising the Kuril Islands & the Rough Sea of Okhotsk

Days 8 and 9 aboard the Regent Seven Seas Mariner (Alaska to Russia to Japan).



After sailing out of Avacha Bay, we headed toward the Kuril Island and then sailed across the Sea of Okhotsk toward Otaru, Japan. Here's where the waters got a bit rocky and we had the roughest seas of the entire cruise.

Captain Phillipe was wonderful about keeping everyone informed and the crew even posted detailed weather maps so guests could understand exactly what was in store. Voyage and weather maps were updated daily in the Observation Lounge.


On this particular evening, the boat rocked port to starboard all night long. It was tough to sleep because you'd roll one way, get comfortable and then the ship would pitch and you'd roll the other way! It was so turbulent that I actually got out of bed to secure all the stemware that was rattling around in our bar setup!

Luckily this only lasted for a little while and the next day was smooth sailing once again!

Photos by Leonard Hospidor

Kamchatka Peninsula in Eastern Russia

Day 7 aboard the Regent Seven Seas Mariner (Alaska to Russia to Japan).


If you had told me last year that I’d visit Siberia in 2006, I would have scoffed. It’s not exactly the type of place one adds to his or her list of favorite getaways. However, this port ended up being one of my favorite destinations during our vacation. This part of Russia was everything and nothing like I’d expected.

Once again we were up early, before dawn and camped out in the Observation Lounge. As the sun rose, the sight before us really was stunning. The ship was already in Avacha Bay and we could see the Kamchatka Peninsula, home of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. Affectionately called the "city among the volcanoes," there are 150 volcanoes here, 29 of them are still active. Several volcanoes were steaming during our visit. The city is named after the two small vessels that Vitus Bering sailed to Alaska from this very spot in 1739.

Today, three volcanoes – Avachinsky, Koryaksky and Viluchinsky – watch over Petropavlovsk, as they have for thousands of years.

This part of Eastern Russia has always been remote and there is very little road travel. Instead, regional trips make use of planes, boats and helicopters. In fact, many of the Regent shore excursions included a helicopter trip to a more remote area of Kamchatka.

The area is lush and gorgeous. If you love nature (think brown bears, snow ram, sable, wolverine and Stellar eagles), you’ll love this Russian hideaway! If you’re into hiking, skiing or fishing (up to a third of the world’s Pacific salmon population makes its home in Kamchatka), you’ll be in heaven here!



Despite the natural beauty of the area however, we could see right away what a difficult life these Russians have being somewhat isolated from the rest of Russia. With our binoculars, we could see the industrial factories and housing complexes of Kamchatka. These weren’t deluxe condos by the bay, but rather barracks-style military housing.

Some sort of factory right outside town was spewing soot into the air.

Moored near the Mariner where many ships… some very old and in very poor shape. It was hard to believe some of the boats were still floating!

In the Cold War era, the Soviet Union tested its missiles often and used Kamchatka Peninsula as the target. The area has long been a military submarine base and in 2005, one of Russia’s subs sank to the seafloor, requiring the help of the international community to rescue the crew.

Despite its utilitarian past, one look at the volcanoes here and you’ll see what a marvel of nature has been gifted to the Russians lucky enough to live here. We took a Regent shore excursion – Kamchatka Nature and Countryside – since you really are in the middle of nowhere. Without a tour, you won’t see all that much of the area. The town's attractions include a museum, a statue of Lenin, an observation site atop Nikolskaya Hill and a small outdoor market area (not too much in the way of souvenirs).

This was the first port that required the use of the tenders and transferring to shore was quick and easy. When we arrived on Siberian soil, the Regent staff photographer had a terrific setup for photos with the Mariner, Avacha Bay and volcanoes in the background. The photographers onboard the Mariner were terrific. They were easily accessible but not intrusive.

We opted to tour by bus and started with a stop atop Nikolskaya Hill. The view offers a terrific vantage point of Avacha Bay and a prime photo opportunity. We then drove to a nearby country area with views of Koryaksiy and Avacha volcanoes where sled dogs are housed and trained. (Now, I’m a true animal lover and have worked for the ASPCA here in the states. I was a bit bothered by how some of the dogs were treated, but it was basically a cultural difference. These are working animals and were treated as such. They were not family pets. The animals did seem healthy, even if they did yearn for more attention and affection.)

We cuddled we some puppies and rough-housed with some adult dogs. Then we were treated to a sledding demonstration. Wow! These dogs are super focused! It was fun and a nice photo opportunity. And, by this time, I was really missing my own two dogs. I really appreciated the chance to play with these Russian canines!



Lunch was served (wood-grilled salmon, mushroom soup, crepes with homemade jam, and bread) outside at picnic tables near the dachas (summer houses with attached gardens).



The drive to and from the country resort was an eye-opener. The area had some newer developments, such as the apartment complex our tour guide lives in. But, for the most part, this area seems to have been forgotten by the Russian government. The streets and buildings are in disrepair and there certainly is nothing modern about Petropavlovsk (except for the Olympic training facility and stadium). My husband and I felt almost guilty for snapping photographs of the buildings to show our friends and family… almost as if we were tempting fate to have evidence of how much harder it must be for a Russian family to make it than our American family.



The bus itself was what you’d expect in Russia. Do not visit Siberia thinking you’ll get the same type of transportation options as you would in America, Germany or Japan. You won’t. All the vehicles we encountered, while a bit worse for wear, were comfortable enough and got us where we needed to go (despite some rough terrain).

(We did speak with someone who took one of the helicopter tours to Kurilskoye Lake. That tour actually got to see some bears and lots of otters. It sounded like a once-in-a-lifetime experience! He highly recommended it, despite his initial misgivings with the transportation. We had wanted to do that tour but I just couldn’t stomach getting in an aging Russian-made helicopter.)

On the way back from the country, our guide had the bus pull over so we could shop in the town’s department store. There really wasn’t too much in the way of souvenirs. At that point, some travelers took the bus back to the Mariner and others, like us, walked back through the town so we could take pictures at Lenin’s statue and see a local fair that was going on by the bay.

We give Regent's shore excursion five stars. Our guide was very personable and knowledgeable, spoke very good English and was quick to customize the adventure for our group. We've got very fond memories of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky.
Photos by Leonard Hospidor

Staying Fit Aboard the Regent Mariner

General information about our Regent Seven Seas Mariner (Alaska to Russia to Japan) cruise.

One of my concerns about cruising for two weeks was staying fit while onboard. Friends who've sailed the Mariner before assured me that I wouldn't have a problem since the fitness center is so nice. I did some research and decided that I'd take my favorite excerise DVDs with me. I ended up combining in-room workouts with those at the fitness center on Deck 7.

Regent's Fitness Afloat Athletic Program is actually very comprehensive. The center is outfitted with treadmills, recumbent bikes, ellipticals, stair climbers, universal weight machines and free weights. A personal trainer is also onboard and she offers classes in aerobics, stretching, yoga, body toning, circuit training, fitball and pilates.

On the Northwest Passage segment of the Grand Asia voyage, the following classes were given...

• Wake Up and Walk
• Morning Stretch
• Stretch and Relax
• Fitball Exercise
• Low Impact Aerobics
• Aerobic Fat Burner
• Absolutely Abs
• Pilates Mat Work (beginner)
• Yoga Basics
• Yoga Stretch and Stengthen
• Step and Tone (interval training)
• Upper Body Toning
• Lower Body Toning
• Total Body Toning
• Circuit Training (similar to Curves classes)
• Fusion Fitness (not for beginners)

Most classes are 30 minutes, but a handful last a full hour. All classes except Walk Up and Walk are held in the Fitness Center on Deck 7. The morning walks take place on Deck 12.

Six different classes are held on sea days; three options are offered on days when the Mariner is in port.

The fitness instructor during the Northwest Passage cruise was Jacquie Beecroft. She's been with Regent since 2001 and really seems to love what she does.

My husband and I have been using the Fitness Center in the early mornings. I like walking on the treadmill, listening to my iPod and looking out the picture windows as we cruise along. It's so peaceful it's easy to forget that you're actually exercising!

Photo courtesy of Regent Seven Seas

The Majesty of the Aleutian Islands

Days 4, 5 and 6 aboard the Regent Seven Seas Mariner (Alaska to Russia to Japan).

Yesterday was another sea day, there are a lot of those on this particular itinerary! We spent the day reading (I finished Lisa Unger's heart-thumping thriller Beautiful Lies. I couldn't put it down!), watching DVDs (we highly recommend the documentary Why We Fight) and working out in the fitness center.

We're still having trouble with the time change and the fact that we set the clock back one hour every night before going to bed isn't helping too much! Our goal is to sleep until at least 7:00 am tomorrow! We'll see what happens!

This morning we woke early and sat on our balcony for awhile. You would think we were sailing on a lake! The water was so placid and the breeze so gentle. It's not at all what I pictured when we first started thinking about cruising the Aleutian Islands.

At this point it was still dark out, so we went up to the Observation Lounge for breakfast. As the sun began to sneak up over the horizon, we were greeted by the majestic sight of the Aleutian Islands. As this chain of volcanoes rose out of the darkness, we were mesmerized!

Today was the day that we should have stopped at Dutch Harbor. Unfortunately, due to a problem with one of the ship's pods, we're not cruising at maximum speed. This means we have to pass this island by in order to make it to Petropavlovsk, Russia on time. It was such a shame because the day dawned to be just about perfect... crisp, clear and sunny skies. I'm told this is actually quite rare for the Aleutians this time of year.

As we watched steam rising from one of the volcanoes, we also spotted some whales! They seemed to be dancing around the ship... first leading us and then racing the Mariner. Just amazing!

We also saw a female peregrine falcon! In fact, this bird was a stowaway that perched on the deck and on several passenger's balcony railings! Staff anthropologist Terry Breen believes the bird either hitched a ride from Kodiak or flew to us from the Aleutian Islands. Not many people are lucky enough to see these falcons since the species was nearly wiped out by DDT. We felt blessed to see this lovely creature!

Later in the afternoon the pastry chefs went all out for a Viennese afternoon tea. Mmmm! This was probably the most impressive tea that was staged during our cruise. It's back to the gym for me!

The other highlight of the day was a showing of Destino, the "lost" movie that Salvador Dali and Walt Disney made together in 1946. Elias, the art director of the Park West Gallery hosted this event and led the discussion after the viewing of this 10-minute film.

Tomorrow is our last sea day before reaching Siberia. We'll be glad to get off the Mariner and stretch our legs on land for a bit! Tomorrow also marks another milestone: We'll cross the International Date Line! This means we'll actually skip a day. Today is Sunday, September 24 and tomorrow will be Tuesday, September 26. Freaky!

Regent's Le Cordon Bleu Cooking Workshop

General information about our Regent Seven Seas Mariner (Alaska to Russia to Japan) cruise.

Regent Seven Seas is the only cruise line to offer hands-on cooking classes from the famed Le Cordon Bleu of Paris. These "Classe Culinaire des Croisieres" workshops are offered on select Regent sailings. It's truly an entertaining way to fill a few hours during your sea days.

My husband and I both signed up for the course and we had a wonderful time meeting other food-loving cruisers and getting to know our Le Cordon Bleu chef, Franck Jeandon.

The class was especially fun since a couple we had met online at LuxuryCruiseTalk.com had also signed up. It's always nice to meet new and old friends while cruising!

When we boarded the Mariner in Whittier, Alaska, an invitation and course schedule was already in our room. About 16 passengers had signed up for Le Cordon Bleu at Sea and we were split into two groups of eight. The entire group met together for some activities, such as cooking demonstrations and shore excursions. For the actual hands-on cooking classes, each subgroup of eight got together at Latitudes restaurant.

Here is a sampling of the activities you may expect if you take this course:

Welcome Cocktail Party
Our entire group got together at the Connoisseur Club on September 21. Members of the crew toasted us and introduced us to the Mariner's executive chef, Quinn McMahon, and our Le Cordon Bleu chef, Franck Jeandon.

Chef Quinn was born in Australia and opened his first restaurant when he was just 20. (This guy is definitely a go-getter and Regent is lucky to have him.) He worked in a series of five-star restaurants in Sydney before moving to Europe. In 2001, he joined Regent as a Chef de Partie and worked his way up through the ranks aboard the Mariner, Navigator and Paul Gauguin to his current role as executive chef.

Chef Franck was born in Nice, France and began his career in St. Laurent du Var. He went on to work at restaurants across France, including the Michelin-starred Casino le Lion Vert with Jacques Maximin M.O.F., before moving to London in 1995 to open Monte's Club with Alain Ducasse. Le Cordon Bleu snagged Chef Franck in 2003 and he's been teaching for them ever since.

Hands-On Cooking Classes
These began with a demonstration by Chef Franck. Two cooking stations were set up in Latitudes (the Mariner's Indochine restaurant) and our group of eight watched him prepare a dish. We could walk around to get a closer look, take photos and ask questions. Once he completed his lesson, we broke up into groups of two and prepared the recipe on our own. Everyone actually did very well cooking, despite not being in a familiar kitchen.




We enjoyed four cooking classes. The recipies we learned included:

• Quatrologie of Salmon (smoked salmon, gravlax salmon, grilled salmon and marined salmon)

Notice the blue sea salt as part of the unique presentation of this dish. (Chef Franck recommends using dry food color to achieve this subtle effect.)

• Smoked and Fresh Salmon Rillettes with Tomato Crostini


• Medallion of Lamb Roasted with Provencal Spinach Tian

• Chocolate Souflee with Pistachio Sauce

As part of our training, we received several Le Cordon Bleu-logo'd items: a toque (chef's hat), tea towel and cooking apron.

We loved the hands-on portion of these classes. After we'd made our recipies, we'd sit together at a table and eat, drink and discuss cooking and the world. Chef Franck has seen the world and feels passionately about so many things... these discussions were always enlightening.

Cooking Demonstration
We also had one combined class that was strictly a demonstration, no hands-on cooking. The recipe that day was Seared Halibut and Smoked Salmon Raviolis with Lobster Sauce.

Private Galley and Provision Tour
This was a lot of fun! Chef Quinn led our group through the galley and provision area and told us exactly what it takes to run the kitchens on the Mariner. Very interesting!

Chef Quinn giving the galley tour.

Look at this mixer! It's just a tiny bit bigger than our KitchenAid at home!

With a galley as spotless as this, it's no wonder the Mariner has scored a perfect 100 on three separate inspections by the CDC! Congratulations, Regent Seven Seas!

Group Dinners at Signatures
Two group dinners were held at Signatures, the Mariner's restaurant under the auspices of Le Cordon Bleu. The first dinner on the evening of September 26 was actually a test run for the new menu. Various executive crewmembers joined us for dinner. The second dinner was actually our graduation ceremony. We received two 8x10 group photos (taken earlier during our classes), a huge Le Cordon Bleu cookbook and a graduation certificate for framing. These dinners were actually held on evenings when the restaurant was closed to the public so we had the venue all to ourselves... a nice little treat.

Special Market Tour in Otaru
This was a really special treat! Chefs Quinn and Franck hosted a tour of a local market when we docked in Otaru, Japan. (See more about this event in my blog entry dated September 30, 2006.) Our class met at 9:00 am and followed the chefs to waiting taxis that they had arranged to take us on a tour. We visited a local market and had a sushi lunch before being dropped off in downtown Otaru with time to explore on our own. This was a complimentary event that included our classmates and their spouses who weren't taking the class. It was one of the highlights of our trip!

At the time we booked the class, it was $395 per person and worth every penny. We'll definitely sign up for these classes again on our next Regent Seven Seas cruise!

Formal Night and Dinner at Signatures

Day 3 aboard the Regent Seven Seas Mariner (Alaska to Russia to Japan).

This evening we dressed up and attended the Captain's Welcome Reception in the Constellation Theater. If you've never attended such a function, it gives the Captain the opportunity to meet and greet passengers and introduce his senior officers from the hotel, deck and engine departments. The evening begins with a photo op with the Captain and then champagne and other drinks are served in the theater while everyone files in. The Mariner Five entertained the crowd, most of whom were decked out to the nines!

After the reception, we headed to our dinner reservation at Signatures on Deck 6. This is the only French restaurant on a cruise ship that's managed by Le Cordon Bleu.

Prior to setting sail, we were able to make two dinner reservations online at Regent's website. This was one of those reservations. We were seated at a lovely table for two and had a terrific waitress who was very professional and really emphasized the level of service we should expect during the rest of our cruise.

This meal was probably one of the best we had aboard the Mariner. I selected a lobster appetizer and a roast venizon entree. Delicious! The palette cleanser of thyme sorbet was so good, I wished I could order it for dessert too!

The wine selection was a bit lackluster in Signatures (and throughout the ship, for that matter). A Georges Duboeuf was being served this evening. However, if you discussed your particular tastes with the sommelier, he or she made sure to provide beverages that met your requirements.

The room buzzed with activity and it was definitely a full house, but we never felt rushed or crowded. After dinner we walked around the ship and felt as if it were our own. With just a few days at sea under our belts, we'd certainly made ourselves at home!



Photos by Leonard Hospidor

Cruising the Shelikof Strait

Day 3 aboard the Regent Seven Seas Mariner (Alaska to Russia to Japan).



The storm has passed! Captain Philippe did a wonderful job keeping the Mariner steady last night, despite the bad weather. The ship dipped forward to aft all night but once we got used to the rhythm, it was no problem.



This morning we woke to a stunning sunrise and very calm waters! (We still haven't gotten used to the time change, so we're getting up between 5:00 am and 6:00 am every day! We're actually having to wait to see the sun rise!) We've developed a pattern: We wake up early and head to the Observation Lounge on Deck 12 to have a continental breakfast and read a bit. We then pop down to the Coffee Corner on Deck 6 to check our e-mail and make some phone calls using Skype. (More on that in another blog entry.)

Today was our first full sea day as we sailed the Shelikof Strait and headed toward the Aleutian Islands.

There was lots to do, including several lectures. One was given by Laura Brands of Jean-Michel Cousteau's Ocean Futures Society. She discussed the migration track of the gray whale, showed slides and explained what we all should look for while gazing the sea from the Observation Lounge.

Regent favorite, Terry Breen, was also onboard. She's Regent's in-house "destination specialist" and she's been with the line since 1999. Her first lecture of the cruise was titled Alaska – The Last Frontier. Terry is an anthropologist, storyteller and the author of The Cruiser Friendly Onboard Guide to Alaska's Inside Passage. This book is a must-have if your travels take you to this corner of the world.

Stargazer Jon Lomberg presented a sensational lecture about the Northern Lights and the green flash phenomenon (seeing a brilliant flash of green as the sun rises or sets).

Hollywood insider Barry Weitz is also onboard the Mariner and he talked today about The Talent Agent today.

Honestly, there are so many activities aboard the Mariner that you'll never be able to do everything. Every day during our cruise, guests got together in the conference room on Deck 6 to discuss world events. Since so many countries were represented, the conversation was passionate and eye-opening.

This morning, Mariner executive chef Quinn McMahon also presented the first of several cooking demonstrations. Add that to dance class, an art lecture, trivia and bingo, fitness classes with Jacquie (the Mariner's shipboard trainer) and your day can get very busy!

Tonight is also the Captain's welcome reception in the Constellation Theater and formal night. We'll be dining at Signatures, the French restaurant under the auspices of Le Cordon Bleu. More on that later.

Photos by Leonard Hospidor

Making Ship-to-Shore Calls for Free with Skype

Day 3 aboard the Regent Seven Seas Mariner (Alaska to Russia to Japan).

We've been spending a fair amount of time here on Deck 6 at the Coffee Corner next to the library or in Stars (where there's consistent wireless Internet access). Victor mans the coffee machine and he's terrific. We enjoy talking with him about his home in the Philippines and what it's like to work on the Mariner.

We usually pop down here early in the morning to call home using our laptop and Skype software. We're so glad we installed this software before leaving home! With SkypeOut you can call any land line or cell phone anywhere in the world. You can also call any computer that also has the software installed.

We were able to call our family and friends for free every day during the cruise. This was a special promotion, however. As of 2007, Skype's rates to call from your laptop to a land line or cell phone appear to be 2.1 cents per minute (or less) for international calls. Calls from one Skype-outfitted computer to another are free.

To use Skype, simply download the software and follow the instructions. You should also buy a comfortable headset (the one you use with your current cell phone may work nicely).

When we made our calls, we sat in the Stars lounge so we wouldn't disturb other guests in the library or those enjoying their morning coffee. We were always the only people in the lounge and it was nice to chat with our friends and family while watching the world go by outside.

Photo by Leonard Hospidor

Kodiak and the Rain

Day 2 aboard the Regent Seven Seas Mariner (Alaska to Russia to Japan).

Today's port of call aboard the Regent Mariner was Kodiak, Alaska. Kodiak is actually an archipelago that covers about 5,000 square miles. Glaciers carved out these islands thousands of years ago. Native inhabitants are said to have lived here for over 8,000 years. Russian explorers joined them in the late 1700s. (Photo courtesy of the Official Kodiak Visitors Guide.)

Kodiak is nicknamed the Emerald Isle and you’ll understand why when you visit. The islands are covered with trees and grasses and moss and everything is such a vivid green! It’s gorgeous! In addition to the plant life, this is an animal lover’s haven as its home to Kodiak brown bear, red fox, weasel, black-tailed deer, beaver and more. You’ll see all over 200 species of birds here and other creatures, such as sea otters and whales.

We had really looked forward to this stop because my husband is a photographer and we had plans to rent a car, do some hiking in the Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge and capture nature on film (or more accurately, in digital pixels!). Unfortunately, it rained and rained and rained… really, a total downpour. We took it in stride though; we know the weather in Alaska is unpredictable, especially this time of year.

We put on our rain gear and walked around Kodiak on our own. Other guests either took one of Regent’s shore excursions or hailed a cab for a tour of their own. It was a disappointment, but we’re just looking at it as one more reason that we’ll have to get back to Alaska sooner rather than later. Next time, we’ll try to do a flight-seeing tour and get closer to some bears.

Many guests were restless due to the rain but the crew and social staff, including cruise director Barry Hopkins, planned many activities to make sure everyone enjoyed the day despite the rain. Afternoon tea was served in the Horizon Lounge and many enjoyed the before-dinner caviar bar in the Observation Lounge.

Departing from Kodiak was quite interesting. By this time, the weather was very bad. The storm was blowing in with a vengeance, so Captain Philippe Fichet Delavault had to make the decision to leave port a bit early and try to outrun the worst of it. He also changed our route so we’d sail above Kodiak and take refuge between the mainland and the island. We watched as the local port captain tried repeatedly to jump back onto the pilot boat so he could return to Kodiak after helping Captain Philippe sail the Mariner out of port. After many, many nail-biting tries, the Captain Philippe decided it was too dangerous and the Mariner backtracked and sailed back into Kodiak harbor. The pilot boat captain was then able to jump back onto his own boat and the Mariner turned and left the harbor on its own.

At this point, the ship is rocking and rolling. My husband and I had never experienced heavy seas, so we really weren’t sure if this was going to be a big deal or not. However, when we saw the crew shrink-wrapping a curio cabinet to a support column on Deck 5, take art off the walls and remove all chairs and tables from the balconies and decks, we sort of had a hint that things could get funky. (I had to get a photo of the shrink-wrapped curio cabinet. This tells you what a well-run ship the Mariner is. No detail is overlooked... even during a storm!)

This evening we were invited to a cocktail party to celebrate the beginning of our participation in Le Cordon Bleu cooking workshop. The party was held in the Connoisseur Club on Deck 6. Despite the rocky seas, we went and enjoyed meeting all our new “classmates.” The Connoisseur Club is a lovely room, complete with a fireplace and humidor. It's quite homey and definitely a great place to curl up in one of the armchairs to read a good book.

Tomorrow is the first of four consecutive sea days and we'll begin our culinary training with Le Cordon Bleu workshop.

Photo credits (top to bottom): First photo courtesy of the Official Kodiak Visitors Guide. All other photos by Leonard Hospidor.