Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Dispatch from Donna: The Alaskan Outposts of Sitka, Kodiak, and Dutch Harbor

This is travel writer Donna Hull's second installment of "Dispatches from Donna," a weekly update during her 52-day voyage aboard Regent's Seven Seas Mariner.

Greetings from Regent Seven Seas Mariner. As my husband, Alan, and I complete our second week on this journey from Vancouver to Singapore; the splendid state of Alaska continues to enthrall us with majestic but rugged beauty.

If scenery could be called charming, that’s how I would describe Sitka. Small islands are sprinkled around Sitka Sound, many of them populated with log homes, which can be rented through the U.S. Forest Service… if you’re patient enough to withstand the five-year waiting list.

After tendering to shore, passengers disperse to a variety of cruise excursions, including whale watching or dry-suit snorkeling. But, the Russian-influenced town, and surrounding area, is easy to explore on your own.



Alan and I take advantage of the sunny weather by walking through the commercial district before continuing out of town to Sitka Historical National Park, where a series of paths lead to 18 Tlingit and Hiada totem poles. From there, it’s a short walk over a salmon-filled river and through the woods to the Raptor Center. The facility rehabilitates injured bald eagles and other wild birds for release back into the Alaskan wilderness.


The next day, when Mariner arrives in Hubbard Glacier, she is the only ship to enjoy the sunny scene in Desolation Bay. Passengers crowd into the Observation Lounge for the early morning view of the glacier as well as the St. Elias and Fairweather mountain ranges that loom in the background. As Captain Felice Patruno pirouettes the ship in continuous circles, the glacier calves sending a spray of water into the air, thrilling the lucky photographers who have captured the scene.

Rain pours in Seward as some passengers depart while a new group boards joining us on the journey across the Bering Sea. Since no excursions are offered, we use the time to take care of laundry and other business. A couple of hearty guests rent cars, braving the bad weather, to view the surrounding countryside.



Our Alaska exploration continues when Mariner stops at Kodiak Island, home of Kodiak bears, fish canneries, and WWII history. With stormy seas the previous night, our arrival in Kodiak has been questionable. But, Captain Patruno prevails, giving us the opportunity for a two-mile hike in Abercrombie State Park, where dramatic coastal scenes compete with abandoned bunkers and other artifacts remaining from WWII.


After a day sailing through the Aleutian Islands, we reach the end of our Alaskan ports: Dutch Harbor. The Japanese bombed this secluded outpost during WWII. Stark, tree-less mountains ring the harbor where commercial fishing is now king. Passengers are treated to school bus rides through the small enclave for glimpses of life at what seems like the edge of the world.



When we leave the calm waters of Dutch Harbor, Mariner sets sail across the Bering Sea, known for its storminess. Next stop? Siberia.

—Donna Hull for LuxuryCruiseBible.com

All photos © Alan Hull and Donna Hull.

Follow Donna on Twitter, visit her blog, and return here next week for the next "Dispatch from Donna" as she travels for 52 days aboard Regent's Seven Seas Mariner from Vancouver to Singapore.

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