We woke early today, still not quite used to the time change. Ideal Cove was breathtaking in the morning mist and the day held much promise. We all gathered for breakfast at 8 and enjoyed a hearty meal, knowing we'd be hiking the 3 Lakes Trail in Tongass National Forest within the hour.I'm not really an outdoorsy person and I'm definitely not all that athletic, but I do enjoy easy to intermediate hikes and expedition leader Nitakuwa assured me that this particular hike would be a breeze—she was right. The trail's elevation was gentle and all hiking was done on a wooden boardwalk covered with fish net. The traction was great...even in the rain (yes, it rained, this is a rain forest after all).
The hardest part was actually getting to the trail. We loaded in the skiff and headed for shore where we had to gingerly walk over thousands of mussels and sea grass. It ws very slippery and I was so glad to have taken one of the walking sticks kept aboard the Safari Spirit.
After the hike, we headed back to the yacht for a terrific lunch before gearing up to visit LeConte Glacier, part of the Stikine Icefield. During the Pleistocene Age, North America was basically covered in sheets of ice. The Stikine Icefield was around in those days and can still be viewed in Alaska where various glaciers astonish visitors on a daily basis.
In 2006 we spent a few days in Anchorage and Kodiak, Alaska, but we never got very close to a glacier so we had no idea what to expect at LeConte. We had no idea what a magical experience we were in for.
LeConte is about 21 miles long and one mile wide and is the southernmost tidewater glacier. Sometimes you can get very close to the glacier and at other times, like today, you can only go as far as the icebergs will allow. This particular glacier is actually fairly stable and hasn't receeded as much as other glaciers, such as Juneau's Mendenhall.Prior to departing for LeConte on the skiff, Nitakuwa warned us that it would be cold so we'd best wear the mustang suits provided by American Safari. She also told us that Harbor seals live and give birth on the icebergs, so we'd need to be very quiet. These creatures are quite skittish and any sound or sudden movement will cause them to dive into the icy water to hide.
Danny, the engineer and ship's mate, expertly piloted the skiff and wove in and out of the various glacial outcroppings. It was a gorgeous day and the sun glistened off the ice. It was pin-drop quiet and as we took in the mountains, the ice field, and the hundreds of Harbor seals going about their business, I suddenly felt very tiny and unimportant. What an amazing world we live in when we just take a few minutes to stop and see it in its most natural state!
Despite the cold, the experience was so special that none of us wanted to leave. Nitakuwa came prepared and served us hot chocolate with peppermint schnapps and whipped cream! That kept us going and we stayed out on the water for quite some time.
The scenery was just stunning and affected us all. It was finally time to return to the Safari Spirit and Danny once again criss-crossed the field of ice. It was just spectacular—something I'll never forget! —Andrea
Photos © Leonard Hospidor and may not be used without permission
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