Two Days in Tokyo & Bon Voyage to the Mariner

Day 13 aboard the Regent Seven Seas Mariner (Alaska to Russia to Japan).

Tokyo was our last port of call. While we were sad that our cruise aboard the Mariner was coming to an end, we were very interested in getting to know the massive capital of Japan.

Regent's Mariner sails into Tokyo on October 2, 2006.

While we found very few people that spoke English, we had no trouble getting around and actually bought day passes for the subway system. You don’t need to know Japanese to navigate the subway because the signage is so good. Try it the next time you’re in Japan!

It took us a few tries, but we eventually figured out how to buy our subway passes at this machine.

If you’re from New York City like we are, you’ll be amazed to see that people actually line up and patiently wait for the subway to arrive! There’s no pushing and shoving when the doors open: Commuters file off the train and other passengers calmly move in when the coast is clear. I don’t think I’ll ever see that in the states; I wish we would! The lines are organized well and very clean. It was a pleasure traveling around Tokyo via subway.

As you can see, the tracks are cleaner than clean. (If you don't live in a major city, this probably seems like no big deal. However, if you've ever waited for the subway in Manhattan during the middle of a heatwave, you'll understand why we think a clean subway system is a fantastic subway system!)

Check this out, the underground subway passages are lined with potted plants!

Tokyo is a huge city of 12 million people and it spans 55 miles east to west and 15 miles north to south. We’re from New York City, a place known for its hustle and bustle. Let me tell you, it’s a one-horse town compared to Tokyo! Wow!

We managed to cover a lot of ground in Tokyo – over eight miles in one day. (I couldn’t believe it either, but I wear a pedometer every day and was astounded to see that we walked that much!)

We spent a lot time just exploring the various sections of Tokyo… people watching, shopping, sampling food, etc. In addition, we visited the following sights:

• Imperial Palace East Gardens – You can’t get very close to the Imperial Palace but it is a must on your photo opportunities checklist. To be honest, we found the gardens to be less impressive so we didn’t spend as much time here as we had originally anticipated.

• Senso-ji Complex – Located in the Asakusa section of the city, this 17th century Shinto shrine and garden honors the goddess of Kannon. It's a very busy spot with lots to see. After you've taken in the shrine, visit the nearby shopping kiosks and mom and pop restaurants.


• Meiji Shrine – Two 40-foot-tall torii gates (with a 56-foot span across the top) stand at the entrance of this gorgeous Shinto shrine. The gates were carved from 1,700-year-old Taiwanese cypress trees. Walking through the gates symbolizes that you are leaving the secular world in order to workship at the shrine within. This complex was built in honor of Emperor Meiji, who died in 1912. He was instrumental in putting Japan on the path to modernization.

When we visited the Meiji Shrine, we were lucky enough to see guests arriving for a traditional Japanese wedding ceremonies. These girls were adorable!

• Ginza shopping area – Wow! Wow! Wow! We had so much fun walking through the Ginza, stopping at unique boutiques and department stores and sampling luscious treats from the area dessert shops. And, you can’t go to the Ginza without spending some time in the famous department stores, Mitsukoshi and Takashimaya.

After an exhausting day, we headed back to the Mariner around 10:00 pm so we could pack our bags and disembark the following morning. Sigh! We wished we could stay on for the next segment of the Grand Asian Pacific voyage that continues on to Hiroshima, Japan before making its way to China’s Dalian, Tianjin (Beijing), Shanghai and Hong Kong.

We got back to our room and chatted with our butler Laxmesh for a while as we packed our things. We then drifted off for another restful night’s sleep. (I really love the beds aboard the Mariner! So comfortable!)

The next morning we were off the ship by 8:00 am. The process was quick and easy and within 10 minutes we were in a taxi on our way to the fantastic Four Seasons Tokyo at Chinzan-so. More on the Four Seasons later.

Not to sound like one of those glossy travel brochure, but our Regent cruise was so much more than a vacation… it really was a journey. We experienced so much and met so many fantastic people. I’ve got a lot more comments about the cruise experience overall. Look for those in another blog entry soon.


Photos by Leonard Hospidor

Beautiful and Sacred Sendai, Japan

Day 12 aboard the Regent Seven Seas Mariner (Alaska to Russia to Japan).

Sendai – the largest city between Sapporo and Tokyo – was spectacular today, despite the very heavy rain. Once again, we took Mother Nature’s curve ball in stride, put on our rain gear and anxiously waited for the all clear to go ashore. As we disembarked from the Mariner, crew members gave out large umbrellas to anyone who didn’t come prepared… a very nice touch! Without an umbrella or hat, you’d get drenched within seconds!

Map of Sendai courtesy of the Sendai Tourism & Convention Bureau.

We booked a Regent-sponsored tour for Sendai and are so glad we did. This is a large, sprawling city (about one million people) and you really need to drive quite a distance to get to the best shrines and temples in the Matsushima area. We weren’t sure about the availability of taxis or public transportation, so the Regent tour really was the best option.

The city itself is quite modern. That’s because downtown Sendai was bombed extensively by the U.S. during World War II. So, what you see now is fairly recent construction.

For The Many Sights of Sendai excursion, we joined other passengers on a modern air-conditioned bus. The highlights on this excursion included:

• Zuganji Temple – This Zen temple was constructed in 1606 by Date Masamune to serve as his family’s house of worship. The temple contains many painted screens and carvings, along with Date family heirlooms.

Pictured above is the Godai-do Temple which sits on one of Matsushima's 180 islands.
Photo courtesy of the Sendai Matsushima Tourist Guide.

• Godai-do Temple – Built near Zuganji, this is a tiny temple situated all alone on a pine-covered inlet.

To get to the temple, you must transverse one of two bridges.

The temple was built by the Order of Date Masamune and is only opened every 33 years. While we didn’t get to see the interior, the exterior of Godai-do was exquisite and well worth the trip.

The carvings on the eaves of the temple actually depict the 12 Chinese zodiac symbols.

• Shiogama Shrine – We then drove up the coast to the fishing town of Shiogama where the seaside Shiogama Shrine sits amid cedar trees. There is a steep staircase of 202 steps leading to the 1,200-year-old shrine. It’s quite a sight, whether you’re looking up or down the stairs!


The god enshrined at Shiogama protects fisherman, seafarers and expectant mothers. We were also told it relates somehow to salt, but we’re unclear on the exact meaning of that statement. In the spring, we’re told that the area’s cherry trees blossom in a glorious fashion.


• Kanran-Tei Pavilion – Presented as a gift in the late 16th century to the Date family by Hideyoshi Toyotomi, this artful pavilion was used for moon viewing and tea ceremonies.


To get to the Pavilion, which was actually built in Kyoto and then moved to Sendai, you walk through a wooded park area that is quite stunning. Statues dating back thousands of years dot the landscape. There is also a modern museum on the property with additional Date family artifacts.

Despite the veritable downpour, we got some amazing photos in Sendai. It’s a beautiful place.

Photos by Leonard Hospidor unless noted otherwise.

Hakodate & Our Best Meal in Japan

Day 11 aboard the Regent Seven Seas Mariner (Alaska to Russia to Japan).


Today’s port of call was Hakodate at the southwestern tip of Hokkaido island. This was a major fishing and trade port during the Meiji-era and is still a bustling, important city for Japan. In fact, it’s home to the north end of the Seikkan Tunnel where trains pass to and from the main islands. It’s too far for daily commuter train traffic to Tokyo, but it’s still the major transportation method the Japanese now use to get around.

The weather today was sunny and warm; perfect for exploring the area. After talking with some locals and visiting the outdoor morning market and Hakodate History Plaza, the city quickly became one of our favorite ports on this itinerary. We really had a great time here, mainly because the people are so nice and friendly!

Once again we decided to tour independently and took Regent’s complimentary shuttle bus to the center of town. From there we walked to the morning market where we watched families fishing for large squid in a tank. When a squid was caught, it was handed off to a knife-wielding woman who cleaned the squid, sliced it up and put it on a plate. The families then sat at picnic tables and ate the squid while it was still flopping around. I was not courageous enough to try any of the squid myself!

Fishing for morning squid.

Got 'em!

Breakfast is served.

Another local delicacy is sea urchin. You cut them open and scoop out the innards. Again, I was not nearly brave enough to sample this gourmet treat, although we did run into Phil Butterworth, the Mariner’s Travel Concierge and he was enjoying a sea urchin snack. He said it’s definitely an acquired taste.




We then walked to the Hakodate History Plaza and Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse district. This is an area of old warehouses by the waterfront that have now been modernized and turned into a lovely shopping district. We bought some beautiful handmade wooden toys here and then had the best meal of our trip (soup, crab rolls, a braised venison dish, a curry dish and seaweed ice cream).


We then walked for a bit near Hakodate-yama (Mount Hakodate). (Time prevented us from going up in the cable car, but it looked like you’d have a great view from the top.)

When we returned to the Mariner, we decided to sit on our balcony and have a few drinks. Our room overlooked the pier. While it was a very industrial area, there was a carnival of some sort going on in a nearby field and we were people watching with our binoculars.

As departure time approached, we settled back in our room to watch a DVD before dinner. As we curled up on the sofa, I thought I heard The Eagles. Yes, we definitely heard The Eagles’ “Hotel California” and it was getting louder and louder. What the…? We opened the sliding glass doors to our balcony and saw a crowd of Japanese families gathered on the dock. The local chamber of commerce had turned out to see the Mariner off and part of the entertainment included the playing of this particular Eagles song. For some reason, we found this so incredibly endearing!

When “Hotel California” ended, an MC took the mic and described a special song and dance the locals would perform for us. It turned out to be the official song of Hakodate. It was quite catchy and a troupe of dancers got everyone on the Mariner tapping their toes! The song was repeated several times and by the second go-round, all of us were dancing out on our balconies and waving to the crowd. It was wonderful seeing little children, their parents and grandparents all doing the Hakodate dance! Finally, the Mariner’s horn bellowed and we gently pulled away from the dock as the townspeople continued to sing and dance. What a special memory! We love you, Hakodate!

Photos by Leonard Hospidor