American Safari Cruises: Food & Wine Review

If you've been reading my posts from Alaska, you know Leonard and I just returned from a seven-night itinerary aboard American Safari Cruises' Safari Spirit. Due to the intimate size of the yacht, accommodating just 12 passengers, we hoped the chef would create some extraordinary meals.

We spend most of our time in New York City and are lucky enough to dine at excellent restaurants on a weekly basis. We're not picky, but we are discerning and several luxury cruise lines have disappointed us in the past when it came to food and wine. I'm pleased to report that the Safari Spirit and Chef Dave Gipson exceeded our expectations.

As I previously mentioned, there is one sitting for each meal and guests gather in the Dining Room on the Main Deck. Chef Dave provides an early risers breakfast from 6:30–8 a.m. in the Salon and the full cooked-to-order breakfast starts at 8.

The early risers buffet consisted of muffins (a different homemade flavor each day), toast and English muffins, yogurt, three kinds of cereal, and fruit.





The main breakfast was usually either an egg scramble of some sort with potatoes, bacon and/or sausage or pancakes. Chef Dave prepared a scrumptious eggs benedict with salmon one morning. You could also order toast, oatmeal, eggs cooked to order, etc. Several types of juice are offered, as is coffee, tea, and hot chocolate.

At about 12:30 p.m., a light lunch was generally served: a soup and salad combo, a sandwich, or something like seafood gumbo. Dessert was always served but if you wanted something more healthful, you could request a plate of fruit or a dish of sorbet.

Above: seared tuna salad

Above: corn chowder and spinach salad

Above: grilled chicken breast and salad with a spicy dressing

Above: seafood gumbo and biscuit

In the afternoon when returning from whale watching or hiking, Kim and Kim often had freshly baked cookies waiting for us.

Appetizers and cocktails were served nightly at 6 p.m. Some of the items Chef Dave served included salmon cakes, quesadillas, vegetable dumplings with spicy peanut sauce, and smoked pink and white salmon with cheese and crackers.

Wine and champagne were available each evening, as were select liquors and spirits.









Dinners were hearty and often focused on fish and seafood. The starter was always either salad or soup and then there were two entrees to choose from (or you could have a bit of each). The chef was careful to accommodate everyone's allergies and preferences. For example, on the first day one guest casually mentioned his dislike of cilantro. After that, any dish with cilantro was personalized for that guest. Again, dessert was served nightly: a delectable peanut butter pie, berry cobbler with ice cream, a lemon/blueberry pudding, and more.

Above: rack of lamb

Above: rockfish with rice, asparagus, and mango salsa

Above: scallops with cous cous and snap peas

Above: Alaskan king crab with spaghetti squash and risotto

Above: shrimp scampi with mashed sweet potato

If you visit American Safari Cruises' website, you'll read that these cruises are all-inclusive. The line serves premium wine, champagne, and spirits. The wines rotate but here's a list of what was served during our sailing:

L'Ecole N 41 cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, and chenin blanc
Hedges Family Estate cabernet/merlot
Apex merlot
Lava Cap petit syrah
Robert Mondavi pinot noir
Elk Cove pinot noir
Maryhill syrah
Napa Cellars zinfandel
Edna Valley chardonnay
Chateau St. Jean fume blanc
Santa Margherita pino grigio
Adelsheim pinot gris
St. Supery sauvignon blanc
Alexandria Nicole viogner

We really enjoyed our journey with American Safari Cruises and the excellent food and wine only enhanced our voyage. Bravo to Chef Dave Gipson!

Photos © Leonard Hospidor and may not be used without permission

Safari Spirit, Day 7: Pavlov Harbor & Tenakee Springs

It's our last day aboard the Safari Spirit and we're all quite sad. Viewing the Alaskan wildnerness in such an intimate way has touched us all. We've also grown quite fond of each other and it will be strange when we part ways tomorrow. Some of us are returning home while a few couples are continuing their journeys in Alaska and Canada.

This has been our rainiest day yet, but it didn't stop us from enjoying a full schedule. We began with kayaking and skiffing around Pavlow Harbor at Chichagof Island. One guest even did some fishing and caught a salmon!

Then, we spotted a mother bear and three cubs on the beach! We ran to the skiff and got so close. Further down the beach we also saw some deer. What a special way to start our last day with the Safari Spirit!



We then headed to the metropolis of Tenakee Springs with its 75 residents. There's a charming old-fashioned general store and a bakery that also sells some Alaskan art.

After exploring the town, we went for a nature walk along Indian River Trail. This was my favorite hike since a local dog "adopted" us and led us along the path. A bear had been sighted in the area, so I was doubly glad for the dog's presence. As the hike came to an end, the rain picked up and we hurried down to the dock to reboard the skiff and head back to the Safari Spirit for our farewell dinner.


After dinner we enjoyed a slide show and shared many laughs! Expedition leader Nitakuwa took photos throughout the trip, as did several guests. At the end of the evening we were presented with a CD that included a map of our itinerary, all the photos from the week, contact information for each other and the crew, and some recipes from Chef Dave. It was a thoughtful touch.

The champagne had flowed all week, but tonight we toasted newfound friendships, conservation, and adventure. Sailing with American Safari Cruises was an exceptional experience and I would do it again in a heartbeat.

Throughout the week, I was reminded of the words of Mark Twain:

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."

Thank you, Dan Blanchard, Captain Tate, Nitakuwa Barrett, Kim Killingsworth, Danny Blanchard, Kim Dahm, and Dave Gipson for taking such good care of us and showing such deep respect for Alaska's wildlife. It truly was the trip of a lifetime! —Andrea

Photos © Leonard Hospidor and may not be used without permission

Safari Spirit, Day 6: Takatz Cove & Basket Bay's Marble Grotto

There are just two more days of this itinerary and everyone has commented how fantastic it's been. We keep joking that our group has good karma since we've lucked out and have seen just about all the animals on our "must see" list: eagles, bears, humpback and orca whales, seals, and sea lions. The weather has been gorgeous too with fair skys and some sun. Though it's rained, it hasn't been heavy.

This morning was spent kayaking and skiffing around Takatz Cove. The waterfalls here are so stunning; it's hard to believe that don't all have names. But, the topography continually changes in Alaska and a powerful waterfall this season may just be a trickle next year. While skiffing today I focused my attention on the water line and saw sea stars, Harbor seals, Harlequin ducks, and so much more. It was drizzling and a bit cold, but that didn't stop us from getting close to the waterfall to feel its power. What a rush!

Around 4 p.m. we took off in the skiff for Basket Bay and the Marble Grotto. You can only visit this location at certain tide levels and it was just about right when we arrived. Just as we entered the grotto, a large eagle soared overhead. It couldn't have been scripted better if it was the opening scene of a movie! We couldn't go very far into the grotto due to some rock outcroppings, but it was beautiful.

As we settled down to dinner, we thought we were done for the day, but nature had other ideas. A large brown bear was spotted on shore so we ditched dessert, got in the skiff, and slowly made our way over. We got within feet of this bear—so close that I could hear him munching on the grass! I can't tell you how this made me feel. I was in awe but also somewhat sad. Years ago, brown bears could be found all over the United States. Their range now is quite small. I hope Alaska safeguards these very special animals.


Our normally gregarious group was unusually quiet as we boated back to the Safari Spirit. The encounter with this bear affected each of us and left us all, literally, speechless. We had previously joked that Captain Tate would have to dress up as a bear for a photo op if we didn't get close enough to the real thing. Well, Tate was off the hook on that count. Again, an experience none of us expected, but we wouldn't trade it for anything else.

After we all returned to the boat, a few passengers went back out with Danny to set some crab pots. Then, after a few drinks in the Salon, everyone drifting back to their staterooms and I'm pretty sure we all dreamed of orcas and bears that night! —Andrea
















Photos © Leonard Hospidor and may not be used without permission

Safari Spirit, Day 5: Red Bluff Bay, Chasing Orcas & Baranof Warm Springs

It's Wednesday and we're visiting Baranof Island today. It's lovely here with the shore cliffs punctuated by spectacular waterfalls. Early this morning, we explored Red Bluff Bay via kayak and skiff. I didn't feel like getting in the kayak so Len partnered with Dan Blanchard. Since Dan is the CEO of American Safari, certain rules didn't necessarily apply to him...like staying four feet away from the shore while kayaking. The intrepid duo stepped out on shore when they caught sight of a young bear. The poor thing looked a bit thin and was definitely wary of the visitors. Len snapped a few photos and then it was back in the kayak while the bear meandered off into the woods.

After lunch we all experienced an amazing once-in-a-lifetime gift from the Alaskan wildlife: we were able to follow an orca pod, traveling quite fast, for nearly half an hour. Just magic! We first saw the pod from the deck of the Safari Spirit. Once Nitakuwa saw how many orcas were out there—and that they were breaching—she and Danny loaded us into the skiff and raced off to get closer.

As we approached, we saw that a baby was among the pod and that they were traveling parallel to the shore...as if they had someplace important to be. Our skiff mirrored their speed and heading and we were treated to something very few people ever see. Stunning doesn't even begin to describe the experience. When the skiff started running low on fuel, we had to turn back, but the orcas kept right on going.


Next we sailed to the very small town of Baranof Springs. There is only one yearround resident and about 25 residents in the summer. The activity here was a hike to Baranof Warm Springs. While that sounded like fun, Len and I wanted to relax so we stayed behind with Captain Tate and Chef Dave. It was like having our own private yacht!

Later in the evening we anchored at Takatz Cove, also on Baranof Island. Another delicious dinner from Chef Dave and then lights out. We're entering bear country now and we're hoping for another encounter tomorrow. —Andrea

Photos © Leonard Hospidor and may not be used without permission

Safari Spirit, Day 4: Cleveland Passage, Whales, & Steller Sea Lions

Today we awoke in beautiful Cleveland Passage (mainland Alaska). The only thing on today's agenda was exploring Frederick Sound aboard the Safari Spirit and the skiff. We've never been fans of "sea days" but on this type of cruise, you'll really need one! All this hiking, kayaking, and skiffing is tiring! But, to be honest, even the sea day is very active since you'll be scanning the water for signs of whales, seals, sea lions, and porpoise and watching the shore for bears.

In addition to some awesome humpback sightings, we took the skiff out to Brothers Islands and a steller sea lion haul-out. Despite their loud barks, these animals are actually quite cute!

The slower pace allowed for some great conversation on the yacht and Nitakuwa gave a humpback whale presentation during cocktail hour. Nitakuwa is just one reason this trip is so fantastic. Her enthusiasm knows no bounds and she can answer just about any question you may have about the wildlife you're seeing. I only wish we had more time for her enrichment lectures.

We did enjoy one special surprise this afternoon. American Safari Cruises launched a new ship, the Safari Explorer, in May. She sails Alaska in the summer and Hawaii in the winter. She was passing by so the captains decided to let passengers skiff to the opposite ship for a tour. What fun! In a future blog post, I'll talk more about the 36-passenger Safari Explorer and will include some photos of the vessel. She's a beauty!

After the tour was complete, we received a new passenger: Dan Blanchard, the CEO and president of American Safari Cruises. He spends several weeks each season visiting the yachts, talking with passengers and looking for ways to improve the experience. Dan is a fascinating character who's led a very interesting life. His stories were a hoot! Here he's pictured singing about the state of Alaska. What a great guy! (Oh, and he lucked out and happened to join our yacht for a special Alaskan king crab fest at dinner!)

Over the past few days, we've all commented to the crew that everyone seems so close...a tight-knit group with a true family atmosphere. Well, it turns out that many members of the same family work for the cruise line. For example on this sailing, our lead steward Kim Killingsworth is Dan Blanchard's sister and Mate Danny is, in fact, Dan Blanchard's son. No wonder this team is so good!

Tonight we anchor at Baranof Island's Red Bluff Bay and will make our first "port call" tomorrow at Baranof Springs. Can't wait!

Photos © Leonard Hospidor and may not be used without permission

Safari Spirit, Day 3: Scenery Cove, Cascade Creek Waterfall & Humpback Whales

Everyone aboard the Safari Spirit is having a ball! When we first boarded, we all discussed what we'd like to see in Alaska. For me and Daryl, bears were high on our list. We haven't seen any yet, but yesterday's visit to LeConte Glacier more than made up for that. I wasn't prepared for the beauty of the fjord and I'm so glad we had a chance to spend time there!

Last night we anchored in Scenery Cove, part of Thomas Bay on Alaska's mainland. After breakfast, we got in the skiff and motored over to the beach to find the Cascade Creek Waterfall trailhead. The walk from the beach to the trail was shorter and easier than yesterday's—phew! However, I thought this hike was much harder. I'm only 5-feet tall and some of the steps up were difficult for me—even with the walking stick. Of course, if you're hiking up to reach the top of a waterfall, you can't avoid the steep incline! But, if you've got problems with your knees, you may want to sit this one out.



Since everyone else in our group is much more athletic than I am, I was a bit worried about lagging behind. However, you need never fear that. The expedition leader usually takes the lead and another crew member, in this case Kim Killingsworth, follows up in the rear. When Kim saw I was hesitating a bit, she radioed Nitakuwa and they decided to break the group in two. Kim, Daryl, Peter, and I lagged back a bit...it was nice of everyone to slow the pace or me and Peter used the opportunity to take lots of photos. Since this is bear country, both Kim and Nitakuwa were carrying bear spray. I asked Kim if she ever had to use it and she never has. She says as long as you make noise on the trail and don't carry food, bears will pretty much leave you alone. That's good news! Because while I really want to see a bear, I don't think I want to surprise one on the trail!

We made it to the top of the waterfall where there is a small bridge...just stunning! Now to turn around and get back down! Yikes! I will admit that I had a somewhat rough time on the descent and did fall once. But, it was one of those things where I was standing one minute and before I knew what happened, I was sitting on the ground. I wasn't hurt anywhere...just surprised. I guess my feet went out from under me. After that, I just sat on each rock and shimmied down, like a toddler going down the stairs on his bum. Thank goodness for rain pants! Definitely pack them! We used them every single day. I'm glad I did this trail but it was definitely tougher than I expected.

Once we returned to the Safari Spirit, we enjoyed a leisurely lunch and then started watching for whales as we sailed Frederick Sound. I had just gone to our cabin to take a short nap when I literally heard Nitakuwa's whoop of excitement—a pod of humpback whales was coming right toward us and there was a baby with them!

I grabbed my camcorder and raced to the deck just in time to see several of the humpbacks "mug" us. Evidently, the baby got too close to our ship and the adults came between her and us to try and coax her further away. It was such a surprise! None of us could believe it! Captain Tate turned away from the whales a bit since you're not supposed to get so close to them but in this case, they came to us! Once we established the correct distance between vessel and whales, we went back to enjoying the show.


Before we knew it, we had spotted the spouts of dozens of humpbacks so Nitakuwa suggested that we board the skiff for a closer look. Wow! We motored out to the area of concentrated spouts, throttled back the engine, and then just waited. Soon, we heard the tell-tale whoosh of the spout and saw several whales surface just a matter of yards away! It was unreal!


A humpback's tail can be as wide as 12 feet across and now, from this vantage point, I could truly see how massive these animals are! Yet, they are so graceful as they waved their tails in the air before diving deeper. At this point, we put the hydrophone in the water so we could eavesdrop on the whale calls and songs. It was a glorious encounter!


As we returned to the ship, Daryl and I commented that we could forego the bears because the whale encounter was so amazing. But, who knows what tomorrow will bring?! —Andrea

Photos © Leonard Hospidor and may not be used without permission